Even after a decade as a Jewellery Editor, there are still some diamonds that stop me in my tracks. Like the eight-carat old European cut solitaire that I tried on at Hancocks London: a megastar of a stone, fully deserving of the tiny rotating plinth on which it’s displayed. And it’s not the only diamond to cause a sharp intake of breath.
The Burlington Gallery on the second floor of Hancocks’ newly renovated St James’s showroom showcases dozens of incredible diamonds, from classical solitaires to unusual cuts and colours. With its pink Setting Plaster walls, Murano glass chandeliers and a Bollinger champagne bar secreted inside a cupboard, it’s a romantic haven for the newly or almost-engaged. With such a dazzling range of rings to try on, you’ll want to linger for hours.
A four-carat Art Deco emerald-cut diamond, a two-carat Golconda diamond, elegant oval diamonds in flower-inspired designs, plus Colombian emeralds, Burmese rubies, sapphires in stunning shades of pink and blue… it’s a magpie’s dream, and every ring is one-of-a-kind. That’s because the vast majority of Hancocks’ diamonds and gemstones are antique: many are sourced from historic jewellery, and given a new lease of life in handcrafted rings inspired by the era in which the stone was originally cut.
“When these diamonds were originally cut, they did not have the commercial pressures of today; the goal was to create the most beautiful, polished gem possible, maintaining weight while making something with character, beauty, life and charm,” says Guy Burton, Managing Director of Hancocks London, which was founded in Mayfair in 1849. “Our old-cut diamonds are all individuals and still show the hand and skill of the cutter. Each one is truly unique in character.”
This celebration of history is what makes Hancocks unique. One of London’s oldest and most prestigious jewellers, it has received four royal warrants over its 175-year history – the first from Queen Victoria in 1849. Visitors to the new showroom can flick through a company diary started by its founder, Charles Hancock, in 1866. The diary documents the house’s numerous royal, aristocratic and celebrity clients, while the contents of the display cabinets reflect centuries of exceptional craftsmanship.
Previously located in a shop in Burlington Arcade, Hancocks’ new home displays an astonishing amount of antique, vintage and newly crafted jewellery over three sumptuous showrooms. On the ground floor, vintage Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels appear alongside centuries-old tiaras. I popped a late-Victorian pearl and diamond tiara on my head and instantly felt like a Disney Princess. It’s the perfect finishing touch to a dreamy bridal look. Upstairs, in the Bruton Gallery, I strung a 1930s rivière necklace around my neck: set with over 40 carats of old-cut diamonds, it would be show-stopping for a black-tie wedding, and still looks modern enough to wear with jeans or tailoring.
There’s a gorgeous array of wedding-day jewellery scattered throughout the three floors: from natural pearl earrings and necklaces to antique diamond bracelets, diamond chandeliers and, my favourite, a cabinet full of bold, textured gold jewellery that would look sensational with a minimal silk gown.
Vintage jewellery connoisseurs will get excited about collectible jewellery by the likes of Georges Lenfant, Rene Boivin and Aldo Cipullo. And those whose love affair with vintage is just beginning can be reassured that the collection has been curated by Hancocks’ experts, with a focus on distinctive design and exceptional hand-craftsmanship.
“We pride ourselves on our curation of jewellery, that displays the finest skills and expertise of designers and master craftsmen,” says Guy, who selects every antique diamond and gemstone himself, and leads the development of bespoke creations. As a family-run house, this personal touch is what keeps clients coming back, knowing that every time they walk through Hancocks’ doors, there will be a new selection of one-of-a-kind treasure to explore.
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